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How to wash silk by hand without ruining it

Wash silk only if the label allows it: hand wash it in cool to lukewarm water with a mild detergent, rinse well, press the water out in a towel without wringing, and dry it flat or hanging out of the sun. Silk is a fine protein fiber that's weaker when wet and damaged by heat, alkaline soaps, enzymes and chlorine bleach, and many silk dyes bleed, so test first and send dry-clean-only silk to a cleaner.

Best method
Cool hand wash with mild detergent, towel-press, dry in shade
Time
15 to 20 minutes, plus drying time
Difficulty
Moderate

You will need

  • Mild detergent for delicates (no enzymes or bleach)
  • A clean basin or sink
  • Two clean white towels
  • A cotton swab or white cloth for a colorfastness test
  • An iron with a medium setting and a pressing cloth
Close-up of a navy silk shirt collar and button showing the fabric's sheen

Step by step

  1. 1

    Read the label and test the color

    If the label says dry clean, take it to a cleaner. If it's washable, dampen an inside seam with cool water and a drop of your detergent, then press a white cloth on it. If color comes off, don't wash it at home. Laundry symbols explains the label.

    Why: Many silk dyes aren't washfast, according to Nebraska extension, so a garment can bleed or streak the first time it gets wet.

  2. 2

    Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent

    Fill a basin with cool to lukewarm water and a small amount of mild detergent. Submerge the silk and move it gently through the water for a few minutes. Don't scrub or soak it for long.

    Why: Silk is a protein fiber. Heat and harsh or alkaline detergents damage it, and enzyme detergents are designed to break down protein.

  3. 3

    Rinse thoroughly

    Rinse in clean cool water until no suds remain, changing the water as needed.

    Why: Leftover detergent stays in the fabric, and silk doesn't tolerate alkaline residue well.

  4. 4

    Press the water out, never wring

    Lay the silk on a white towel, roll the towel up and press gently to absorb water. Don't wring, twist or hang it dripping.

    Why: Silk is weaker when wet, and twisting can break or distort the fine fibers.

  5. 5

    Dry flat or on a hanger, out of the sun

    Lay the silk flat on a dry towel or hang it on a padded hanger, away from direct sun and heat. Don't use the dryer unless the label says you can.

    Why: Sunlight weakens silk and fades its dyes, and dryer heat damages the protein fiber.

  6. 6

    Iron on medium, on the reverse

    Iron silk while still slightly damp on the medium setting (two dots, up to about 150°C or 300°F), on the reverse side or under a pressing cloth.

    Why: Canada's care guide lists silk at the medium setting. A hotter iron can scorch or shine it.

What silk is, and why it needs gentle care

Silk is a fine protein fiber, spun by silkworms. That puts it in the same chemical family as wool and hair, and it explains almost every rule for washing it:

  • It's weaker when wet, so wringing and scrubbing can damage it.
  • It's damaged by heat and by alkaline products such as harsh soaps, baking soda and full-strength ammonia.
  • Enzyme detergents and presoaks break down protein, so they can damage silk. Kentucky extension says not to use enzyme presoaks on silk.
  • Chlorine bleach weakens silk and yellows it permanently.
  • Sunlight and perspiration both weaken it over time, which is why Georgia extension says to treat sweat on silk promptly.

Add dyes that often aren't washfast, and you can see why only silk labeled washable should be washed at home.

How to get stains out of silk

Stains on silk call for the gentlest treatment, because most strong removers damage the fiber:

  • Blood: sponge it gently with cold water only, blotting with a white cloth. No enzymes, no chlorine bleach and no hot water. See blood on clothes for the full blood method on sturdier fabrics.
  • Sweat: rinse it out soon after wearing, because perspiration weakens silk. If ammonia is used at all, Georgia extension says to dilute it with an equal amount of water and test first.
  • Water-based food and drink: blot, then sponge with cool water and a drop of mild detergent, and rinse.
  • Oily stains and anything set or large: take the item to a professional cleaner and tell them what the stain is.

Sources disagree on 3% hydrogen peroxide. Georgia extension calls it safe for all fibers, while the University of Hawaii's textile guide says no bleach of any kind on silk. If you try it, test on a hidden seam first, or leave it to a professional. The Drycleaning & Laundry Institute advises against ammonia-based treatments on silk and recommends professional cleaning when in doubt.

By situation

Wrinkled silk

Iron it while slightly damp on the medium setting, on the reverse or under a pressing cloth. A hotter iron can scorch or put a shine on silk.

Dry-clean-only silk

Don't wash it at home, even if the fiber is silk. The dyes, lining or construction may not survive water. Take it to a cleaner and point out any stains.

Silk with a blood stain

Sponge it with cold water only, blotting from the edges in. If a mark remains, take it to a professional. Enzyme stain removers that work on cotton will damage silk.

Silk that yellowed

If chlorine bleach or age caused it, the yellowing is permanent, according to ACI and Texas A&M. For yellowed sweat marks, ask a professional cleaner; see yellowed whites for why whites yellow.

Machine-washable silk

Some silk is labeled machine washable. Use exactly the cycle and temperature the label shows, a mild detergent without enzymes or bleach, and the drying method it specifies.

What not to do

  • Don't use chlorine bleach or most oxygen bleach products. Chlorine bleach yellows silk permanently, and oxygen bleach solutions are alkaline, which silk doesn't tolerate.
  • Don't use enzyme detergents or presoaks. Enzymes break down protein, and silk is a protein fiber.
  • Don't wring, twist or scrub silk. Wet silk is weak and can tear or distort.
  • Don't dry silk in strong sun or a hot dryer. Sunlight and heat weaken and fade it.

Other methods that work

Professional cleaning

For dry-clean-only silk, silk that bled during a test, valuable pieces and any stain you're not sure about, a professional cleaner is the safe choice.

Caution: Tell the cleaner what the stain is and how old it is.

Machine wash, when the label allows

Only for silk explicitly labeled machine washable: use the gentle cycle and water temperature the label shows, with a mild detergent.

Caution: Never machine-wash silk that's labeled hand wash or dry clean.

Stain still there?

The color ran during washing

Rinse immediately in cool water until the water runs clear, press out the water, and dry flat. Don't wash it again at home; take it to a professional.

Silk feels stiff or looks dull after washing

Detergent may not have rinsed out fully. Rinse again in cool clean water and dry flat.

A shiny mark after ironing

The iron was too hot or used directly on the face. Use the medium setting, iron on the reverse, and use a pressing cloth.

Questions

Can you wash silk at home?

Yes, if the label says it's washable and a colorfastness test shows no dye bleed. Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent.

How do you get wrinkles out of silk?

Iron it while slightly damp on the medium setting, on the reverse side or under a pressing cloth.

How do you get blood out of silk?

Sponge it gently with cold water only and blot with a white cloth. Avoid enzymes, bleach and heat, and take it to a professional if a mark remains.

Can you use hydrogen peroxide on silk?

Sources disagree: Georgia extension calls it safe for all fibers, while Hawaii extension says no bleach on silk. Test on a hidden area, or leave it to a professional.

Can silk go in the dryer?

Only if the label says so. Heat damages the protein fiber, so air-drying out of the sun is safer.

More laundry guides

Sources

  1. Fiber Types, University of Georgia Cooperative Extension (Textiles)
  2. Care of Quilts: Cleaning (G1821), University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension
  3. Using Bleach in the Laundry, American Cleaning Institute
  4. Remove Stains From Perspiration, University of Georgia Cooperative Extension (Textiles)
  5. Your Winter Wardrobe Brings a Change in Clothing Care, Drycleaning & Laundry Institute International
  6. Guide to apparel and textile care symbols, Office of Consumer Affairs, ISED Canada
  7. Stain Removal for Washable Fabrics (HE 2-840), University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service
  8. Recommendations for Cleaning Garments and Textiles (AT-1), University of Hawaii at Manoa, College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources

Last updated . Methods are drawn from the sources above; how we research and check our guides.