How to get stains out of white shoes and sneakers

Step by step

1. 1

   Check the maker's care directions

   Look for care instructions on the shoe maker's website or packaging. Don't machine-wash unless the maker says the style is washable.

   Why: Shoes are exempt from the federal care labeling rule, so most have no care label. Makers advise against machine washing to prevent damage.

2. 2

   Remove laces and insoles, then brush off dry dirt

   Take out the laces and insoles. Knock the shoes together and brush off dry dirt. On suede, let mud dry completely before brushing.

   Why: Wet cleaning grinds loose dirt into mesh and canvas. Dry mud crumbles away from suede instead of smearing.

3. 3

   Scrub canvas and mesh with mild detergent

   Mix a little mild laundry detergent into warm water and scrub canvas, knit and mesh gently with a soft brush. Wipe off the suds with a clean damp cloth.

   Why: Detergent lifts soil from the weave, and wiping off the suds keeps residue from attracting new dirt.

4. 4

   Wipe smooth leather with mild soap

   Wipe leather and synthetic leather with a cloth dampened in mild soap solution, then dry it with a dry cloth.

   Why: Leather reacts badly to soaking: water can harden and shrink it. A damp cloth cleans the surface without soaking in.

5. 5

   Dry-brush suede and nubuck

   Use a suede brush and eraser on suede and nubuck. Don't wash suede with soap and water.

   Why: Suede's napped surface is damaged by washing. Brushing and erasing lift marks without wetting it.

6. 6

   Wash the laces separately

   Wash laces by hand, or in a mesh bag with regular laundry.

   Why: Laces hold a lot of dirt, and washing them apart from the shoes lets everything dry fully.

7. 7

   Air-dry at room temperature

   Stuff the shoes with paper or insert shoe trees, and let them dry in a ventilated spot away from heaters and direct sun. Dry insoles and laces separately.

   Why: Heat damages shoes and can deform plastic parts such as lace tips. Stuffing holds the shape while they dry.

What shoes are made of, and why that matters

A single shoe combines several materials that need different care: uppers of smooth leather, suede or nubuck, canvas, knit or mesh, or synthetic leather; rubber or foam soles; insoles; and laces with plastic tips.

That's why there's no single shoe stain remover. What cleans a canvas upper can harden leather, and what's fine on leather ruins suede. And because shoes are exempt from the federal care labeling rule, most don't come with a label to tell you, so check the maker's care page before trying anything stronger than mild detergent.

How stains behave on shoes

Mud and grass grind into mesh and canvas, which is why brushing off dry dirt comes before any wet cleaning; see grass stains on shoes. Oils and food soak into leather and suede, where they're much harder to remove.

Heat is the main hazard for the whole shoe. Shoe makers warn that dryers damage shoes and that heat can deform plastic parts such as lace tips. Soaking is the other: water can harden and shrink leather uppers, which is why makers advise against machine washing. White shoes show every mark, but the materials, not the color, decide what you can use on them.

What each material can take, and drying

• Canvas, knit and mesh: mild laundry detergent in warm water with a soft brush. Sources disagree on bleach: the American Cleaning Institute and most shoe makers rule it out, while one maker allows diluted chlorine bleach on all-white canvas only, about 1 tablespoon per quart of water, rinsed off well. Try detergent and oxygen bleach first.
• Smooth and synthetic leather: a damp cloth with mild soap, then a dry cloth. No harsh chemicals. See stains on leather.
• Suede and nubuck: dry brushing and a suede eraser only, never soap and water. See how to clean suede shoes.
• Laces: washed by hand or in a mesh bag.

Keep chlorine bleach off colored parts, leather, suede and anything with spandex: it strips color and damages leather and spandex.

Drying: stuff with paper or use shoe trees, then air-dry at room temperature in a ventilated spot, away from heaters and direct sun. Never use a clothes dryer. Let shoes dry fully between wears.

For expensive leather or suede shoes, oil and ink on suede, salt damage, separated soles and color loss, a shoe repair shop can clean, recolor and re-glue.

By situation

White canvas sneakers

Brush off dry dirt, then scrub with mild laundry detergent in warm water and a soft brush. For stubborn marks on all-white canvas with no leather or colored trim, one maker suggests diluted chlorine bleach (about 1 tablespoon per quart of water), rinsed well.

White leather sneakers

Wipe with a cloth dampened in mild soap solution and dry with a clean cloth. Don't soak or machine-wash them, and skip bleach and harsh chemicals.

Mesh or knit running shoes

Use mild detergent and a soft brush, scrubbing gently. Wipe off the suds and air-dry, stuffed with paper.

Suede or nubuck shoes

Let mud dry, then brush it off and use a suede eraser on marks. Oil and ink on suede are best left to a shoe repair shop.

Blood or grass on white shoes

Treat these by stain type as well as material. See blood on shoes and grass stains on shoes for the specific methods.

Putting shoes in the washing machine

Only if the maker says that style is machine-washable. Even then, never put them in the dryer.

What not to do

• Don't put shoes in a clothes dryer or near direct heat. Heat damages shoes and can deform plastic parts such as lace tips.
• Don't machine-wash shoes unless the maker allows it. Shoe makers advise against it to prevent damage.
• Don't wash suede with soap and water. Suede shouldn't be machine washed or hand washed with soap and water; brush it instead.
• Don't use bleach on colored, leather, suede or stretch parts. Bleach strips color and damages leather and spandex.
• Don't use harsh chemicals on leather or suede uppers. They can damage these delicate materials.

Other methods that work

Diluted chlorine bleach on white canvas

For all-white canvas only, about 1 tablespoon of chlorine bleach per quart of water, as one shoe maker suggests, then a thorough rinse.

Caution: Keep it off leather, suede, colored trim and anything with spandex, and never mix bleach with other cleaners.

Shoe repair shop

For expensive leather or suede, oil or ink on suede, salt damage, separated soles or color loss. A repair shop can clean, recolor and re-glue.

Stain still there?

The shoes lost their shape while drying

Stuff them with paper or use shoe trees as soon as they're clean, and let them dry slowly at room temperature.

Leather uppers feel stiff after cleaning

Too much water soaked in, which can harden leather. Next time use only a damp cloth, and dry the leather right away with a dry cloth.

Stains came back as the canvas dried

Dirt or detergent was left in the weave. Scrub again with mild detergent, then wipe off the suds thoroughly with a clean damp cloth.

Safety

• Wear gloves if you use diluted bleach on canvas, and never mix bleach with ammonia or acids.

Never mix cleaning products; see chemicals you must never combine.

Questions

Stains on shoes

• Blood on shoes
• Grass on shoes