How to clean suede shoes and boots, and get stains out

Step by step

1. 1

   Let wet or muddy suede dry first

   Blot water with a dry cloth, stuff the shoes with paper or put in shoe trees, and let them dry at room temperature, away from heaters and direct sun. Leave mud to dry too.

   Why: Brushing wet suede pushes dirt in and mats the nap. Heat stiffens and shrinks leather, so slow natural drying keeps the shape.

2. 2

   Brush off dirt and lift the nap

   Brush the dry suede with a suede brush using short, light strokes, first against the nap to loosen dirt, then with it. Knock dried mud off before you brush.

   Why: The nap holds dirt between its fibers. Brushing removes surface soil and stands the fibers back up so the color looks even.

3. 3

   Rub dry marks with a suede eraser

   Rub scuffs and shiny or dark spots gently with a suede eraser, then brush away the crumbs.

   Why: The eraser lifts marks from the nap without liquid, which can ring or darken suede.

4. 4

   Use a suede cleaner on soiled areas

   For dirt the brush and eraser don't remove, use a cleaner made specifically for suede and nubuck, following its label. Apply liquid sparingly with a cloth, never poured on, and treat the whole panel evenly rather than one spot.

   Why: Suede-specific cleaners are formulated to avoid rings and dye loss. Treating a whole panel avoids a clean patch with a tide line around it.

5. 5

   Dry, then brush the nap one way

   Let the shoes dry fully, stuffed, away from heat. Then brush the nap lightly in one direction.

   Why: This restores an even texture and color.

6. 6

   Protect them

   Outdoors or in a ventilated room, spray a suede protector evenly from about six inches away until the surface is wet but not soaked. Let it dry for at least 24 hours before wearing.

   Why: A water and stain repellent slows down the next spill, which is easier than removing it.

What suede is, and what that rules out

Suede is leather whose underside has been buffed into a soft nap; nubuck is similar but buffed on the outer side. Either way, the fibers are exposed instead of sealed under a smooth finish. That open surface absorbs liquids and oils instantly, holds dirt between the fibers, and changes color or texture with most cleaners that are fine on smooth leather.

So suede doesn't get washed, by machine or by hand with soap and water: water and soap can stain, stiffen and shrink it. It doesn't go in the dryer or near direct heat. It doesn't get oils, waxes or smooth-leather conditioners, which soak straight into the nap. And it doesn't get scrubbed hard, which flattens and scuffs the nap. See shoes for how suede fits with other shoe materials.

How stains behave on suede, and the spot-treating rules

Water can leave a ring and, if dried badly, a hard, shrunken patch. Rubbing a wet spot mats the nap. Oil and grease spread and darken as they soak in, and they're the hardest stains to shift. Because stain removal can also strip dye, Iowa State's AnswerLine advises taking stained suede garments and valuable pieces to a professional leather cleaner promptly.

The rules for any stain on suede:

• Let it dry before you brush.
• Use dry methods first: brush, then suede eraser.
• Use liquids sparingly, on a cloth corner, never poured.
• Test anything new on a hidden spot such as the inside of the heel.
• Treat whole panels evenly to avoid tide lines.
• Dry at room temperature, stuffed, away from heat.
• Not all stains come out; even makers don't guarantee it.

By situation

Oil or grease stain on suede

Act while it's fresh. Blot off what's on the surface without rubbing, then cover the spot with an absorbent: University of Georgia Extension suggests a Fuller's earth paste, or cornstarch or cornmeal on light colors. Leave it to draw the oil out, brush it off, and repeat if the mark is fading. If a dark patch remains, take the shoes to a leather specialist; extension guidance from Kentucky and Iowa State is not to keep working oil on suede at home. More in grease on suede and absorbents.

Water spots on suede

Let them dry naturally and brush. If a ring remains, sheepskin boot makers even out water marks by dampening the whole panel evenly with a sponge, then drying it stuffed, away from heat, and brushing the nap. The same idea applies to suede shoes: one even damp area dries without an edge.

Salt lines on suede boots

Brush off what you can when dry. White lines that don't brush out need the even-dampening approach or a suede cleaner; see salt stains.

Small spots and marks

A small amount of white vinegar or rubbing alcohol on a cloth corner is listed in manufacturer guidance for spots on suede. Test on a hidden area first, dab rather than rub, let it dry, and brush.

Sheepskin and shearling boots

These have a suede outside and wool inside, with their own care steps. See sheepskin boots.

What not to do

• Don't machine-wash, soak or hand-wash suede with soap and water. Water and soap can stain, stiffen and shrink it. One boot maker also rules out dry cleaning its suede footwear.
• Don't dry suede with a hair dryer, radiator or direct sun. Heat stiffens, shrinks and damages leather.
• Don't brush suede while it's wet. It pushes dirt deeper and mats the nap.
• Don't use oils, waxes or smooth-leather conditioners. They soak straight into the open nap and darken it.
• Don't store suede in plastic bags. Leather needs ventilation and can mildew in humid storage.

Other methods that work

Cornstarch, cornmeal or Fuller's earth for oil

Absorbents draw fresh oil out of the nap before it sets. Leave them on, then brush off.

Caution: Use cornstarch or cornmeal on light colors; Fuller's earth can tint them.

White vinegar or rubbing alcohol on a cloth

A small amount dabbed on a spot is in manufacturer guidance for suede.

Caution: Test first; both can change some dyes. Keep alcohol away from flames.

Professional leather cleaner

The safest option for oil, ink, set stains and valuable boots or suede garments.

Caution: Even professional cleaning can change color or texture.

Stain still there?

The suede looks flat and shiny

The nap is crushed. Brush it once fully dry, using short strokes against the nap and then with it, and use the eraser on shiny spots.

A tide line formed after cleaning

Only part of the panel got wet. Dampen the whole panel evenly, let it dry stuffed away from heat, and brush.

The suede dried stiff

It got too wet or dried too fast. Brush it gently to loosen the nap, and next time dry it slowly at room temperature.

Safety

• Spray suede protector outdoors or in a well-ventilated room.

Never mix cleaning products; see chemicals you must never combine.

Questions

Stains on suede

• Grease and oil on suede

More guides for this room

• How to remove salt stains from boots and car carpet
• How to get the smell out of shoes, and stop it coming back
• How to clean sheepskin boots and remove water and salt stains
• How to clean white shoes and sneakers