Rubbing alcohol for stains: what it dissolves and what it damages
Rubbing alcohol for stains works as a solvent: isopropyl alcohol dissolves many dyes, inks and resins that water won't touch, then evaporates without leaving residue. Blotted through the fabric onto paper towels, 70% or 90% alcohol is the standard extension method for ballpoint ink, some felt-tip ink and lipstick. Test it first, because it can fade some dyes, and dilute it with two parts water on acetate and acrylic.
- Best method
- Blotting out ink, lipstick and dye-based marker
- Time
- A few minutes of blotting, then a wash
- Difficulty
- Easy
You will need
- 70% or 90% rubbing alcohol, with no added color or fragrance
- A stack of paper towels or white cloths
- Cotton balls or a sponge pad
- Liquid laundry detergent or a prewash stain remover

Step by step
- 1
Check the fiber content
Look at the label for acetate, triacetate, modacrylic or acrylic. On those, mix 1 part alcohol with 2 parts water before using it, and test first.
Why: Full-strength alcohol can damage these fibers.
- 2
Test the dye on a hidden spot
Dab a little alcohol on an inside seam and blot it with a white cloth. If color comes off, don't use alcohol on the garment.
Why: Alcohol dissolves dyes as readily as it dissolves stains, so some fabrics bleed or fade.
- 3
Set the stain face down on towels
Put a thick pad of paper towels under the stain, with the stained side facing down into them.
Why: You want dissolved ink to move out of the fabric and into the towels, not sideways into clean fabric.
- 4
Sponge alcohol on and around the stain from the back
Dampen a cotton ball or pad with alcohol and dab the back of the stain and the area around it. Move the fabric to a clean part of the towel pad often, and keep going while color still transfers.
Why: Working around the edges first keeps the dissolved dye from spreading into a ring. Fresh towels keep pulling it out.
- 5
Work in a ventilated spot, away from flames
Open a window, and keep the alcohol away from pilot lights, candles, sparks and stovetops.
Why: Rubbing alcohol is a flammable liquid, and fresh air keeps the vapor from building up.
- 6
Pretreat and wash
Once no more color lifts, let the area dry, rub in liquid detergent or a prewash remover, and launder. Check the spot before drying.
Why: The detergent removes what's left of the carrier, and checking first avoids setting any remaining ink with dryer heat.
How rubbing alcohol dissolves stains
Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) diluted with water. US drugstores sell it mainly as 70% and 91%, with 99% also available. Extension guides call for 70% or 90% with no added color or fragrance; denatured alcohol, which is ethanol-based, is also used.
It's a solvent. Many dyes, inks and resins don't dissolve in water but do dissolve in alcohol, so a stain that a wash won't shift can lift out in minutes. Alcohol also evaporates quickly and leaves no residue, which is why it's useful on fabric you'll wash right afterward.
That dye-dissolving power cuts both ways. Alcohol doesn't know the difference between a stain's dye and the fabric's dye, which is why every guide insists on a test first.
What rubbing alcohol is good for, and what it damages
Good for:
- Ballpoint and some felt-tip ink. The American Cleaning Institute and Kentucky extension sponge around and on the stain from the back over paper towels, or drip alcohol through the stain into a jar. Kentucky warns some inks may never come out, and that laundering first may set some inks. Alternating alcohol with glycerin is the Georgia method for ballpoint.
- Lipstick. ACI dabs it with 70% to 90% alcohol over paper towels.
- Dye-based markers. Permanent marker and some dry-erase marker use alcohol-soluble dyes, the same mechanism as felt-tip ink, which Georgia lists for alcohol.
Damages:
- Acetate, triacetate, modacrylic and acrylic. Alcohol can damage these fibers. If you must use it, dilute with two parts water and test.
- Some fabric dyes. It fades some dyes, and the older Michigan State bulletin warns that high-alcohol liquids can make dyes bleed permanently.
Strength, dilution and what never to mix
- General use: 70% or 90%, undiluted, applied with a pad while you change the absorbent towels often.
- Acetate and other sensitive fibers: 1 part alcohol to 2 parts water.
A higher percentage isn't automatically better. The extension guides accept either 70% or 90%, and on sensitive fibers they dilute it.
Never mix rubbing alcohol with chlorine bleach. The New Jersey Department of Health warns the combination forms chloroform and other chlorinated compounds, which can cause dizziness, nausea and loss of consciousness. Rinse fabric thoroughly before switching between any two stain removers, and see never mix these cleaners.
By situation
Ballpoint ink on a shirt
Treat it before it goes in the wash, since washing can set some inks. Blot alcohol through from the back onto paper towels, changing them as they take up color, then pretreat and launder.
Lipstick on a collar
Lay the collar face down on paper towels and dab the back with 70% to 90% alcohol until the color stops transferring. Follow with detergent and a wash.
Acetate or acrylic fabric
Dilute the alcohol with two parts water and test on a seam first. If the fabric is dry-clean-only, take it to a cleaner and point out the stain.
Brightly dyed or dark clothes
Test before you start. If the dye comes off on the test cloth, alcohol will lift it from the garment as well.
What not to do
- Don't mix rubbing alcohol with chlorine bleach. Together they form chloroform and other toxic chlorinated compounds.
- Don't use full-strength alcohol on acetate, triacetate, modacrylic or acrylic. It can damage these fibers. Dilute with two parts water and test.
- Don't rub the stain back and forth. Rubbing spreads dissolved ink into clean fabric. Dab, and let the towels underneath absorb it.
- Don't use it near a flame or pilot light. Rubbing alcohol is a flammable liquid.
- Don't wash an ink stain before treating it. Laundering can set some inks so they won't come out later.
Other methods that work
Glycerin
Softens the oily paste of ballpoint ink and dried stains so alcohol and detergent can reach them. Often alternated with alcohol on ink.
Prewash stain remover or liquid detergent
For many inks, a solvent-based prewash spray or heavy-duty liquid detergent rubbed in before washing is a gentler first try on fabric that may not take alcohol.
Caution: Check the spot before drying; dryer heat can set any ink that's left.
Stain still there?
The ink spread into a bigger blot
The dissolved ink moved sideways instead of down. Use a thicker towel pad, move to a fresh section often, and work from the outside of the stain inward.
Some ink won't budge
Some ballpoint, felt-tip and liquid inks can't be removed completely. Try glycerin followed by detergent, and if it still won't shift, the dye may be permanent.
A faded patch appeared
The alcohol dissolved the fabric's dye. That can't be reversed. Test on a hidden seam before treating similar items.
Safety
- Rubbing alcohol is flammable. Use it in a ventilated room, away from flames, pilot lights and sparks.
- It's poisonous if swallowed. Keep it away from children.
Never mix cleaning products; see chemicals you must never combine.
Questions
Does rubbing alcohol remove ink stains?
It removes many ballpoint and some felt-tip inks, blotted through from the back onto paper towels. Some inks never come out completely.
Is 70% or 91% rubbing alcohol better for stains?
Either works. Extension guides call for 70% or 90%, and a higher percentage isn't automatically better. On sensitive fibers, dilute it with two parts water.
Can rubbing alcohol bleach or fade clothes?
It doesn't bleach, but it can dissolve and fade some fabric dyes. Test on a hidden spot first.
Is it safe to mix rubbing alcohol and bleach?
No. Chlorine bleach and alcohol form chloroform and other toxic compounds. Never combine them.
Can you use rubbing alcohol on polyester?
Usually, yes, after a dye test. The fibers to watch are acetate, triacetate, modacrylic and acrylic, where alcohol must be diluted.
Other cleaning agents
- Cleaning with acetone: what it removes and what it ruins
- Cleaning with ammonia: what it cleans and what it ruins
- Cleaning with baking soda: what it cleans and what it doesn't
- Cleaning with borax: what it does and how safe it is
- Cleaning with chlorine bleach: what it cleans and what it ruins
- Cornstarch and other absorbents: how they lift grease stains
- Cleaning with dish soap: what it removes and how much to use
- Dry-cleaning solvent: what it removes and how to use it safely
- Enzyme cleaners: what they break down and how to use them
- Glycerin for stain removal: what it loosens and how to use it
- Hydrogen peroxide for stains: what it removes and what it can lighten
- How to pretreat stains: sprays, gels, sticks and detergent
Sources
- Stain Removal Guide, American Cleaning Institute
- Stain Removal for Washable Fabrics (HE 2-840 / FCS2-840), University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service
- Care Products, University of Georgia Cooperative Extension (Textiles)
- A General Guide to Stain Removal, Extension Bulletin E-1453 (adapted from Purdue; based on USDA Home and Garden Bulletin 62), Michigan State University Cooperative Extension Service
- Remove Stains From Ink (Ballpoint, Felt Tip, India, Mimeo, Stamp Pad), University of Georgia Cooperative Extension
- Hazard Alert: Mixing Bleach with Other Cleaning Products Can Be Deadly, New Jersey Department of Health
Last updated . Methods are drawn from the sources above; how we research and check our guides.